If you’ve ever searched for solutions to damaged, frizzy, or thinning hair, you’ve probably come across keratin hair treatments promising glossy, salon-level results. But between marketing hype and misinformation online, what does keratin actually do and what’s pure myth?
As a trichologist-informed supplier of professional-grade haircare, SST UK is here to cut through the noise with a science-backed look at keratin for hair.
What Is Keratin?
Keratin is a fibrous structural protein that makes up around 95% of your hair’s composition (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2018). It’s built from long chains of amino acids linked by disulphide bonds, which provide strength, elasticity, and shape.
When those bonds are intact, hair feels smooth and resilient. When they’re broken by colouring, bleaching, or heat styling, hair becomes porous, weak, and prone to breakage.
Think of keratin as scaffolding: it doesn’t “heal” damaged hair, but it reinforces what’s left.
Keratin vs Protein: What’s the Difference?
While all proteins can improve hair texture, keratin therapy for hair is unique because keratin mirrors the protein structure of your natural strands.
Hydrolysed keratin (a smaller, broken-down form) penetrates the cuticle and integrates with damaged areas, unlike wheat, silk, or soy proteins, which mostly coat the surface. That’s why keratin hair masks and keratin shampoos with hydrolysed keratin often outperform generic “protein treatments.”
How Keratin Treatments Actually Work
1. Salon Keratin Treatments
Professional keratin treatments work by applying a keratin-rich formula, then sealing it with high heat.
This temporarily restructures disulphide bonds, giving smoother, more manageable hair for 3–6 months. However, according to the British Association of Dermatologists, these treatments don’t repair damaged hair, they coat and protect it cosmetically.
Some salon treatments may still contain formaldehyde-releasing agents, which can irritate the scalp or eyes if applied incorrectly.
2. Keratin Treatments at Home
At-home keratin shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks don’t restructure bonds, but they can:
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Fill microscopic gaps in the cuticle
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Reduce porosity and frizz
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Improve elasticity and smoothness
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Protect against environmental damage
The most effective keratin treatment benefits come from products that combine multiple molecular weights of hydrolysed keratin. So some molecules repair inside the strand, while others smooth the outer layer.
📖 Studies in the Journal of Cosmetic Science support this dual action, showing improved tensile strength and moisture retention when hydrolysed keratin is used consistently.
Myth vs Reality: Common Keratin Misconceptions
MYTH: Keratin repairs hair permanently
REALITY: Hair is dead tissue. Keratin can reinforce and protect it, but it cannot regrow or permanently repair bonds.
MYTH: All keratin products are the same
REALITY: Many high-street products use trace keratin that sits on the surface. Professional-grade lines like DSD de Luxe specify keratin type, concentration, and molecular weight for measurable results.
MYTH: Keratin damages hair
REALITY: Only aggressive salon formulas containing formaldehyde can cause issues. Gentle keratin masks and shampoos, free from sulphates and harsh preservatives, strengthen rather than harm.
MYTH: Keratin is just for coarse hair
REALITY: Lightweight keratin for fine hair can add strength without heaviness. The right formulation is key.
Who Benefits Most from Keratin Hair Treatment?
Keratin-based products can help with:
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Colour-damaged or chemically treated hair — fills cuticle gaps, restoring shine
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Heat-damaged hair — restores elasticity and reduces breakage
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Postpartum thinning — strengthens fragile strands during regrowth
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Fine or ageing hair — boosts resilience and fullness
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Extension wearers — protects stressed attachment points
Choosing the Right Keratin Shampoo or Mask
When shopping for keratin hair masks, keratin shampoos, or keratin therapy for hair, look for:
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Hydrolysed keratin high on the ingredient list
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Supporting actives like panthenol (B5), ceramides, and amino acids
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pH-balanced formulas (4.5–5.5) for cuticle protection
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Trichologist or clinical backing to ensure efficacy
📖 The British Journal of Dermatology notes that pH and formulation stability are crucial for maintaining protein performance and scalp health.
How to Use Keratin Products Effectively
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Apply keratin hair masks on towel-dried hair and leave for 10–20 minutes.
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Use keratin shampoos 2–3 times a week for maintenance or daily for damaged hair.
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Add heat (e.g., warm towel) for deeper penetration.
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Rinse with cool water to seal the cuticle.
Expect results within 4–6 weeks of consistent use. Note keratin reinforcement is cumulative, not instant.
When Keratin Isn’t Enough
If hair continues breaking or shedding despite treatment, it’s likely due to internal or hormonal factors (e.g., postpartum, thyroid, or nutritional issues).
Keratin strengthens what you have, but it can’t stop shedding. That’s when a trichologist consultation or professional scalp therapy (like DSD de Luxe treatments) becomes invaluable.
The Science-Backed Approach to Keratin Care
Keratin works best when:
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Used consistently as part of a balanced haircare routine
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Paired with scalp and nutritional support
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Matched to your hair type (fine, coarse, or colour-treated)
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Backed by professional-grade formulation, not marketing hype
At SST UK, we partner with trichologists to ensure transparency and results. The DSD de Luxe keratin range combines hydrolysed keratin in multiple molecular weights with clinically validated actives, helping strengthen, protect, and visibly improve hair quality over time.
